San Salvador’s historic center would not fare as well as those of other Central American capitals, with the natural disasters that plagued the city preventing it from reaching its full potential. In 1873, an earthquake wiped out much of the city, and the San Salvador volcano erupted in 1917 while it was still being rebuilt. By the 1960s El Salvador had become the third-largest coffee exporter in the world, but a 1986 earthquake caused mass destruction and shifted much of the wealth away from the center and into the suburbs. Violence during the civil war kept the country’s middle class away from this district for years and what’s left is a crumbling, congested grid of streets where the Central Market has all but taken over.
Bordering the attractive Plaza Barrios A [map] , you will find many of the city’s most impressive monuments. The Palacio Nacional is built of Italian marble and dates to the early 20th century, though government offices moved out after the 1986 earthquake. A courtyard and some rooms with artifacts are open to the public. The hulking Catedral Metropolitana B [map] (daily 6am–6pm; free), with its blue and yellow dome, is one of the symbols of the city and replaced an earlier church that was destroyed by an earlier earthquake. It’s here that Archbishop Oscar Romero, who was assassinated after criticizing the government during the height of the civil war, lies buried. More attractive is Iglesia Rosario C [map] (daily 8.30am–4.30pm; free), built by sculptor Ruben Martinez in the 1970’s inside an airplane hanger-like structure that hides a dramatic stairway of rainbow-colored light that projects itself onto the altar. To the east, the French Classical Teatro Nacional D [map] (www.cultura.gob.sv; Mon–Fri 1–4pm), Central America’s oldest theater, has undergone extensive renovations and regularly hosts concerts.
At a street market in San Salvador.
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To the southwest is the Mercado Central E [map] (daily 7am–5pm), a sprawling commercial complex that is anchored by a traditional produce market with food stands, but fans out into the streets into a maze of mass produced goods like clothing, footwear, and homewares.
Colonia Escalon and the Zona Rosa
Several of the best museums are found just west of the center – the largest being the Museo Marte F [map] which exhibits 19th century to contemporary works of art. Near Colonia San Benito, the Museo Nacional de Antropología Dr. David J. Guzmán, or MUNA G [map] (Tue–Sun 9am–5pm), has artifacts from the Maya and other pre-Colombian cultures. The Museo de la Palabra y la Imagen (www.museo.com.sv; Mon–Fri 8am–noon & 2–4pm, Sat 8am–noon) focuses on the work of Salvadoran writers and journalists and their efforts during the civil war.
Farther west is the suburb of Colonia Escalon H [map] , an enclave that’s home to the city’s elite. The neighborhood, along with nearby Colonia San Francisco and Colonia Maquilishuat, were mostly untouched by the civil war, aside from the 1989 battle known as the ‘Final Offensive.’ This area is the most secure part of the city and many of the older houses have been converted into condos, restaurants, and art galleries. The best hotels, like the Crowne Plaza, can be found here and to the south in the Zona Rosa I [map] and Santa Elena, home to the modern La Gran Vía and Multiplaza malls, and the US Embassy.
Outside of San Salvador
In the southwest of San Salvador is Santa Tecla, a large suburb with a village feel. The town was briefly the capital of the country from 1855 to 1859, as San Salvador rebuilt after an earthquake. At Paseo El Carmen, a pedestrian-only walkway, cafés, and restaurants line the street, making it a favorite weekend escape for those in the city center. Food vendors selling traditional snacks and sweets can be found everywhere, while at Plaza de la Música there’s usually some sort of informal live music jam going on.
North of Santa Tecla the road climbs 13km (8 miles) to 1,800m (5,905ft) at the top of the San Salvador volcano, to El Boquerón National Park. The highlight is the crater, 5km (3 miles) in diameter and 558 meters (1,830ft) deep, which is intersected by walking and bicycle trails through the pine forests. Armadillos, deer and other mammals can occasionally be seen. There are a few restaurants and cafés at the park visitor center.
Ten kilometers (6 miles) to the southeast of San Salvador is Los Planes De Renderos, a popular green space in the hills with sweeping views of the city. Small eateries and pupusa stands can be found near Parque Balboa, plus there are opportunities for rock climbing.
El Salvador’s largest crater lake, Lago Ilopango, is 22km (14 miles) east of San Salvador. The 28 sq km (11 sq miles) lake is a favorite spot for adventure sports. Here, divers can explore the caves, hot water vents, and volcanic rock formations with San Salvador based El Salvador Divers (www.elsalvadordivers.com). One dive site known as Las Tres Virgenes, features three 3-meter (10ft) -high hand carved stone statues. From April to November, paragliding is also offered.
Joya de Cerén
Just off the Pan American Highway, Joya de Cerén 2 [map] (Tue–Sun 9am–4pm), 33km (20 miles) northwest of San Salvador, is one of Central America’s most fascinating archeological sites. While it’s not nearly as visually attractive as other ruins in the country, the site offers a glimpse into what life was like in a small Mayan farming community 1,400 years ago. Like Italy’s Pompeii, Joya de Cerén was buried beneath ash during an eruption of the Laguna Caldera volcano around AD 600. The residents had time to flee before the seven meters (23ft) of ash fell on their village, but items like garden tools and ceramics still filled with legumes were frozen in time. A shaman’s house, a community temezcal sauna, and various other buildings have been preserved at what is now a Unesco World Heritage site. It was rediscovered in 1976 when a bulldozer dug up a building during the construction of a grain silo. Extensive excavations didn’t begin until 1988, after the civil war, and are still ongoing. There’s a viewing platform and an air-conditioned museum beside the site and free English or Spanish language tours can be arranged.